FAQs

This question is asked by almost every client, and it can’t be answered without explaining the human hair growth cycle. Electrology is a “breaking down process”, not something you can complete in one session. Hair grows in cycles; with the stages being either active, transitional, or dormant in nature. There are always hairs in each of these phases at any given moment. That being said, not all hairs are visible and above the skin at the same time, but a hair needs to be visible in order to be treated. On average it takes 18 months (sometimes 12, sometimes 24) to complete the electrology process and find permanence. If follicles are not successfully treated during their current active growth phase, we must pass through a full cycle of hair growth to gain access to that follicle again in its next active phase, which can mean waiting several months. Therefore, regardless of how many treatments are needed, it will still require on average 18 months for us to even get access to each one of the hairs as they make their way to the surface, few by few. The length and frequency of treatments within this timeframe will depend on a few variables; the clients tolerance, the density of the hair in the treatment area, and the budget of the client.

On average, it takes a series of three 16-week treatments.

The first 16-week period consists of the initial clearing of all actively growing hair in the area. This clearing process will involve treatments ranging from thirty to 120 minutes, depending on the location and density of unwanted hair to be removed. It is crucial to stay dedicated to a weekly session during this first clearing period. Some clients may wish to move through this initial period faster if their skin tolerance and budget allow for longer, multiple hour sessions. Future treatment will vary according to the pattern of subsequent hair growth.

During the second 16-week period, we will treat the growth of hairs that were previously in an unobservable growth stage. These hairs are much finer and in far fewer numbers than the initial clearing. Therefore, during this phase, the frequency and duration of visits will usually diminish.

The third 16-week period is a maintenance program designed to eliminate the hair problem successfully. Usually the client schedules visits when enough hairs have surfaced to warrant a treatment session. These appointments are usually much less frequent than all earlier sessions, and will continue as needed until treatment is complete.

In many cases clients will schedule a touch-up annual visit as new follicles become activated over time, turning from peach fuzz to terminal hairs.

In cases of excessive hair growth, a new series of treatments will be necessary.

Your dedication to regular treatments and your hair growth patterns will determine the number of necessary treatments.

Pain sensitivity is a relative thing. Some people fall asleep during electrolysis treatments, while others say it’s quite uncomfortable. Most generally, people fall somewhere in the middle, likening it to a bee sting in the sense that it can feel annoying but tolerable. I also like to explain pain in relation to getting a tattoo or our ears pierced. Our tolerance to pain is in direct relation to how intensely we want for something. It’s amazing what we endure at different times in life, physically and emotionally, because of our desire. Usually, when people come in for electrolysis its because they REALLY want the procedure and are willing to sacrifice a little discomfort in the moment for lasting results!

Another side note is that the experience of your electrologist and the modality they choose is an important factor. I have endured unnecessarily painful treatments by one electrologist, and successful treatments that I could barely feel in the same treatment area with someone else. Incorrect insertions are painful, a wet layer of lidocaine on the skin coupled with high level flash thermolysis can be extremely painful. Over-the-counter topicals can help take the edge off, just make sure the skin gets wiped dry before beginning treatment.

Some areas are naturally more sensitive than others. Specifically, the upper and lower lip, eyebrows, toes, and the centerline of the body where there is an abundance of nerves.

There are other variables that affect a person’s pain tolerance. For example, a woman’s menstrual cycle can play a role in her sensitivity, as well as things like anxiety, depression, illness, or level of fitness. Some people may also find one side of their body more sensitive than the other.

If you are extremely sensitive, the Electrologist can adjust her settings, work in a pattern that maximizes the bodie’s natural nerve desensitization process, and schedule you for shorter, more frequent visits. Always do your homework and choose your electrologist wisely. The level of discomfort should be bearable at worst.

Typically 3-5 days of growth is the easiest to work with. For those trying to be discrete about facial hair, masks have been a great tool for keeping it hidden on days leading up to treatment. Try to schedule your appointments after 3 days of growth that works around your life demands. I try to personally be very flexible with my clients’ schedules for this reason as I know dealing with visible unwanted hair can be uncomfortable.

Consider this an old wive’s tale or myth.

Hair growth can only be affected by disrupting the follicle itself, which is alive and below the surface of the skin. The external hair shaft is a dead structure, and no amount of shaving or cutting it will impact the follicle. Therefore, shaving has no effect on growth patterns.

With the shortness of the hair shaft after shaving, the rate of growth is much more obvious to us. Imagine if a hair grows a fraction of a centimeter after shaving how we would notice the five o'clock shadow. However, we don't notice that same fraction of a centimeter growth on longer hair that we haven't shaved in a week. This is because we don’t have the same frame of reference or shaved contrast to compare it with.

As far as coarseness is concerned, the end of the hair shaft is left with a long-angled cut after shaving. This creates an optical illusion of a thicker appearance, as if the hair shaft covers more surface area. Similarly, there is a perceived coarseness felt by an erect short hair standing on end, versus a longer growth that lies flatter and feels softer to the touch. Both of these hairs have the same diameter. It's just a matter of the shorter hair being held erect by the follicle and the longer one falling into its natural shape.

Follicles must be stimulated to cause an increase in growth rate, thickness, or density. Shaving every day does not do this. Almost always, a change in hair density or growth is caused by hormonal stimulation, which would have occurred with or without the razor.

Therefore, when your electrologist asks you to stop plucking, and to start clipping or shaving instead, rest assured you are not going to be making your hair problem worse. Plucking was actually probably making it worse and you can find out why in the next response.

This is a common question, as many people have experienced eyebrow hair loss from over plucking, when pencil-thin brows were trendy.

Just think of eyebrows as outliers. Eyebrows have slow growth rates and can take 6-12 months to fill back in after over-plucking. Follicles can also be easily damaged in this area which results in stunted or completely ceased growth altogether. We don’t really see this on the rest of the face and body.

Plucked facial hairs usually resurface between 7 and 16 weeks. It may seem like they return sooner, when in reality those are just neighboring hairs on a different growth cycle being mistaken for one another. We usually have many more active terminal hairs than we realize.

The problem with plucking is this. Most new and unwanted hair growth is hormonal in nature. Specifically, it’s being stimulated by androgens, a type of steroidal hormone. When we pluck our hair we create a little micro-injury and blood rushes into the follicle for healing. The problem is that our blood carries with it the very androgen hormones that are causing the hair problem in the first place. The increased androgens to the localized area begin activating neighboring follicles that were once vellus or “peach fuzz” hair. Thus, exacerbating the hair problem by creating more of the deep terminal hairs we are trying to get rid of.

Therefore, plucking is not the desired method of controlling unwanted hair. We recommend shaving and clipping until you can get into electrolysis treatments.

We all know tweezing, waxing, threading, depilatories, and shaving can be causes for ingrown hair.

Electrolysis, on the other hand, is a treatment to alleviate ingrown hair problems, by eliminating the hair completely.

On rare occasions, incorrect epilations during an electrolysis treatment could cause ingrown hairs. If a hair is extracted prematurely, before the current or frequency has done it’s job destroying the root sheaths, the hair could be broken off beneath the surface of the skin with the root still in tact. This essentially results in a “tweeze” rather than a successful electrolysis “epilation”. Tweezing, we know, can damage or distort the follicle. Distorted follicles can result in the hairs growing sideways, backward, or curling down into a ball. Experienced electrologists rarely prematurely “tweeze” hairs during treatments, but it can happen on occasion. This is not to be confused with the use of tweezers, which are used to “epilate” or remove the treated hair from the follicle.

A current ingrown hair problem can actually be successfully treated and resolved by an experienced electrologist.

That said, Electrolysis is rarely the culprit for ingrown hair. On the contrary, it’s a great treatment for ingrown hair problems, by eliminating the hair permanently.

The most important point is that electrolysis is the only FDA-approved method of PERMANENT hair removal. Laser can only offer a permanent REDUCTION in hair. Many people come to electrolysis after spending thousands on laser hair removal, only to find out the results aren’t permanent.

In addition, laser only works with particular hair/skin types. The laser beam is attracted to pigment, so it doesn’t recognize blonde, grey, or red hair. It’s the most successful when used on clients with really light skin tones and darker hair, as that combination creates a contrast for the laser to easily spot the hairs on. This is why sunbathing/tanning is not advised when undergoing laser treatments. The added melanin/pigment to the epidermis can attract the laser, causing burns and damage to the skin.

Until recently, laser hair removal was dangerous for clients with more melanated skin types for this reason; it could be badly burned. There has however, been a new type of laser introduced into the marketplace making it possible for clients of color to safely receive laser hair removal treatments now.

Electrolysis, on the other hand is safe and available for use on all hair and skin types. The electrologist inserts her probe at the appropriate angle and depth to target and destroy the nourishing papilla at the base of the hair follicle. As long as she can see the hair she can treat the hair, no matter its color. With regard to skin types, its best for clients with more melanated skin to stay away from high-frequency thermolysis. These clients have an increased risk of hypo/hyper-pigmentation when such high heat is involved. Since traditional Galvanic electrolysis causes follicle destruction by means of a chemical reaction, it’s the best modality for these clients; as well as just being easier on all skin types in general.

Another important thing to mention about laser hair removal here is something called paradoxical hypertrichosis. This is an uncommon yet shocking occurrence that can happen after laser therapy, oftentimes when too fine of hair has been treated, especially around the cheeks and sideburns. It’s basically an increase in hair density, color, or coarseness; or a combination of all three. It happens on previous laser treatment sites where there is no other known cause for excessive hair growth. In layman’s terms, laser therapy can exacerbate and make the hair problem worse on certain occasions. Electrolysis on the other hand has not been known to have this same effect in stimulating more hair growth.

I generally don’t advise clients toward waxing or laser therapy, but on certain occasions they can assist in the electrolysis process. For example, on really large projects, such as the legs or full back, laser and waxing can temporarily remove the hair in a larger area and shorter period of time. This can make the electrology process a bit more efficient and methodical as only the hairs in the active growth stage will be the first to grow back in. The electrologist can then target the re-growth in its much finer and more vulnerable state, allowing her to move a little faster through the process.

We ask that clients allow three months to pass between the completion of their final laser hair removal session and beginning electrolysis treatments.

This allows for a an obvious separation between the modalities, meaning the treatment results won’t get intermingled or confused. Not only will the skin have healed from laser treatments, the regrowth of active follicles will have also had the time to re-emerge. This creates a more realistic picture of how much hair the electrologist will be treating.

If clients wish to begin treatments sooner it is possible. They just need to be aware that there is an unknown amount of hair to be treated with electrolysis because it takes a few months to re-emerge after laser, and won’t yet be visible at the time of the consultation.

Allow 3 months to pass between a final laser hair removal session and starting treatment with electrolysis.

Stop all plucking in general as it can skew the time frame it will take to complete the electrolysis process, as well as potentially make the hair problem worse. Shaving and clipping are the best options for controlling the hair problem until Electrolysis can permanently eliminate it.

Discontinue all exfoliation to the area 2 weeks prior to treatment. This allows skin to heal completely. Exfoliation could include peels, micro needling, depilatories, or the like.

3-5 days of growth is the most optimal length to work with when treating the hair, so be sure to stop shaving at least 3 days prior to your appointment.

Avoid sunbathing for 24 hours prior to treatment. Your session would be quite uncomfortable with sun burned skin.

When it comes to pre-treatment instructions, cleanliness is the most important factor. This means hair should be washed prior to the hairline being worked on. The face should be washed before treatment on the face, and a full shower/bath before bodywork. No lotions, oils, deodorants, or makeup should be applied to the treatment area prior to a session. Clean skin reduces the risk of infection or irritation. Topical anesthetics are the only exception to the rule. You may wish to apply an over the counter topical numbing creme, such as 5% Lidocaine, twenty minutes before you arrive. It activates best when covered with a piece of clear plastic Saran wrap. The treatment area will always be wiped clean with rubbing alcohol when the treatment begins. The numbing action typically peaks twenty minutes after application and slowly subsides over an hour. Some people find this comforting, especially when working on extra sensitive areas like the upper lip.

Avoid caffeine on the day of your appointment as well, as it has a dehydrating effect on the skin.

Lastly, avoid rushing if possible, as this creates tension and anxiety which can make clients more sensitive to treatment.

Many electrologists will tell you that red scabs are totally normal and will heal just fine if you don’t pick at them. To me, this is partially true. While quite common out there, red scabs are a sign of over treatment. The size and amount of them is the main consideration. And yes, generally speaking, these should heal up fine if not picked or exposed to sun, bacteria, sweat, or further infection. They are however, injury to the skin which is never the goal. And, while the body is a miraculous healing machine, these small injuries will break down tissue and collagen over time if repeated. If a client were to undergo a series of treatments that left her with red scabs every time, she could find herself with “orange peel” skin years down the road, resulting from the chronic breakdown. She might also see hyper/hypo-pigmentation in the treatment area. This type of scabbing happens most often with flash thermolysis, as it creates extremely high heat.

Some areas are just more sensitive and prone to over-treatment than others. For example the body is more prone to small scabs than the face. But, the face has sensitive areas, too. Eyebrows are sensitive to bruising, while the upper lip, two lateral areas on the chin, and sideburn strips are all quite sensitive and prone to over-treatment. A really densely packed area of hair is also prone to over-treatment with follicles positioned so close to one another. An experienced electrologist will space out her epilations so as not to over work an area like this.

If you were to experience some slight clear lymph drainage, crusting, or a few pin sized scabs here or there on occasion, it would not be cause for alarm. Don’t pick them, and they will heal naturally and completely. If however, you are seeing an electrologist who is leaving you with a treatment area full of small pencil-tip sized scabs on every visit, I would recommend finding another service provider for the health of your skin. Experiencing some mild discomfort during the electrolysis treatment is worth the permanent results, damaging the skin is not. Nor is it a necessary part of the treatment process.

This is the main reason why I work with the modalities I do. Galvanic and Blend treatments rarely ever cause scabbing to the skin. Some of my more reactive clients might experience little swollen “wheels” that resemble mosquito bites, or a hint of redness, but these subside within the hour, after which there is no evidence a treatment had been done; except for the fact that the hair has been epilated and the skin is smooth!

#loveyourskin #saynotoscabs

Electrolysis should be a very minimally invasive treatment, causing just a bit of mild skin reaction like redness or small wheels of swelling. These “wheels” resemble mosquito bites and subside within the hour.

If over-treatment occurred, even in the mildest sense, there could be some yellow lymph crusting or small pinpoint red scabs developing in the 48 hours following treatment. In these cases it is important not to pick at any scabs or crusts, as it could cause self-inflicted scarring. Tiny pinpoint scabs on a few of the treated follicles could be considered normal. However, if the entire treatment area consists of red pencil sized dots of scabbing, this is an indication of over-treatment and its an unnecessary trauma to the skin. If this should occur, don’t pick them, and they will heal just fine. But, I would suggest having a conversation with your electrologist to inquire why this has happened. If she is dismissive or normalizes that kind of prolific scabbing, I would personally look for another service provider.

The main concern with Electrolysis after-care is that the follicles have been evacuated and the pores are more vulnerable to bacteria build up where there was once a hair. Therefore for 24 to 72 hours we want to ensure minimal introduction of bacteria to the treatment area. This means:

1. Do not touch or shave the treated area.

2. Apply ice cubes locally for redness and swelling.

3. Clean with hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or sea breeze for 3 days.

4. Do not use make-up on treated area for 24 hours.

5. Avoid the use of saunas and spas.

6. No sunbathing

7. If scabbing should occur, avoid picking.

All materials and instruments used in the treatment have either been sterilized, sanitized, or disinfected. It is important that you continue an after-care program at home to help your skin heal and to avoid unnecessary irritation. Call your electrologist with any questions you may have.

At some point along everyone’s electrology journey, they ask themselves this question; I did too.

Here’s the thing. Our hair grows in cycles. Each follicle is independently in its own stage of the growth cycle; either active, transitional, or resting. The length of the growth cycle varies on different areas of the body as well as from person to person. For example, the scalp hair can be in an active growth stage for 3 to 7 years before shedding. With such a long growth stage compared to transitional or resting phases, it’s said that 80-90% of follicles are in the active phase of growth at any given moment on the scalp. The difference between 3 to 7 years of growth varies from person to person which is why some people can grow their hair really long and others cannot. In the 3 year example the hair sheds before it has the chance to get long because that person’s active growth phase is just shorter.

Face and body hair have different time lengths of active growth. Roughly 70% of chin hairs are in an active growth phase that will last approximately 16 weeks then rest for 10 weeks. Around the upper lip and mouth, roughly 65% of hairs are in the active growth phase, which lasts only 6 weeks and rests for 6 weeks. As you move down the body to the breasts, arms, bikini, and legs there are roughly only 20-30% of hairs in active growth, which lasts from 3-4 months and then rests for 3-6 months depending on the area. This means there is roughly 3-5 times more hair in an area than you can visibly see in any given moment and it will be re-emerging over the coming 12-24 months. See the “Electrolysis” tab to review the hair growth cycle chart by body region.

The point of all this is not to confuse, but rather to paint a very basic picture of how different parts of the body will have hairs emerging at different times, and to showcase how an area that was previously cleared by treatment, may have a re-emergence of new growth after 3 months.

Now, if the client has been plucking, these numbers all get skewed and even less hairs are visible than are actually there. In this case there will be new growth in the coming months as well as regrowth of plucked hair.

But, for the client who has discontinued plucking prior to starting treatment and who has undergone consistent treatments for a couple of months, they will most likely see an exciting and substantial amount of progress around the two month mark. This is because much of the hair will have been treated and a large clearing of the area should be noticeable. This, unfortunately is usually short-lived and followed by the doubts rolling in around the third month. This leads into our next big point.

Because the electrologist is working in an area below the surface of the skin, which is impossible to see, she is using her knowledge and experience to “feel” her way to the bottom of the follicle where the dermal papilla is located. The papilla is the nourishing blood supply at the base of the hair root, and the area which must be properly destroyed. Electrologists are not 100% accurate with every insertion for this reason. Many authorities differ on what is an acceptable percentage of successful epilations in a given treatment. Most have agreed between 40-60% of the follicles treated should be permanently destroyed in order to be considered effective. This means that the follicles which received an inaccurate insertion or level of current, may only be partially destroyed. They will still be able to regrow a hair, even if just a thin and poorly nourished one, from a partially damaged follicle. This is to say there will always be some level of human error and regrowth, even with highly skilled operators. Just how much though, is determined by the experience and skill level of the electrologist and the modality that she uses.

To come full circle, around the third month into treatments is the time when most people start to have doubts. This is because there is a new wave of natural growth from the upcoming active cycle of hairs that were dormant, as well as a regrowth of hairs that were not effectively treated. These hairs are usually permanently destroyed the second time around, as they are thin, and not so deeply rooted. It’s imperative to stay on top of the regrowth by anticipating it, and treating it at this most vulnerable stage.

For these reasons, electrolysis is called a “breaking-down” process. And, electrologists often tell their clients to “trust the process”, because there will most likely be a moment of doubt around this 2-3 month timeframe when the second wave of hairs come in, mixed with the first wave of regrowth that appear after a long period of dormancy.

The other thing to note here is that Thermolysis, and specifically Flash-Thermolysis modalities are known to have a higher rate of regrowth because they are not as effective as Galvanic current in the total destruction of the follicle. If you are seeing a Flash operator, she may be epilating more hairs per treatment session, but you undoubtedly will have more regrowth that will need re-treating. Galvanic and Blend methods are a bit slower, using on average a 5-6 second count per follicle, but the success rate of total destruction is much higher, and easier on the skin in the process.

When treated by a skilled technician, electrolysis is virtually risk free. There may be some temporary redness and swelling that subsides within the hour, or no visible reaction at all. After an intensive multi-hour session in a densely packed area, one might feel some general mild tenderness in the treatment area for the first 48 hours.

In cases of mild over-treatment some lymph drainage or crusting may occur. This could also result in the formation of small pin sized scabs that may appear within 48 hours of treatment. While not ideal, these crusts or scabs will heal completely when not picked, and left alone to fall off naturally. It’s also important to keep these scabs out of the sun until healed.

When a client is prone to keloids, electrolysis may lead to further development.

In rare and extreme cases of over-treatment by an inexperienced operator, there could be scabbing to a level that results in hyper/hypo-pigmentation, scarring, or pitting.

It’s imperative to find a licensed electrologist with working experience in all modalities, skin, and hair types.

Thermolysis should be avoided on more melanated skin tones, as it can result in hyper/hypo-pigmentation. Galvanic current is best suited for these clients.

And no matter the treatment received, proper after-care by the client is always a crucial factor in the healing process.

Electrolysis is safe for almost everyone. There are however, some conditions that could make electrolysis more uncomfortable than usual, or that must be treated prior to undergoing electrolysis treatments. There are also a few instances that require either a doctor’s authorization to treat, or when electrolysis should be avoided completely.

Active Herpes Simplex (fever blisters or cold sores) is extremely contagious and sensitive to pain. Work should be restricted to other areas, or wait until healed before treating.

Impetigo is an extremely contagious disease which must be treated first.

Psoriasis is not infectious, so electrolysis can be done as long as the probe doesn’t touch the lesions themselves, and the client can tolerate the treatment.

Eczema is not infectious but highly sensitive, and clients cannot have treatment in an infected area.

Parasitic or fungal diseases of the skin are highly contagious and require treatment prior to beginning electrolysis treatments.

Folliculitis is frequently either fungal, viral, or bacterial in nature, and thus highly contagious. It must be treated by a doctor first or electrolysis treatments restricted to other areas.

Generally speaking, electrolysis is not covered by health insurance policies. It is however, covered by most insurance companies when treatment is medically necessary prior to vaginoplasty or phalloplasty. Other medically necessary reasons may be approved on a case by case basis with your insurance company, but it will most likely be an exhausting effort on your part. If you are persistent though, you may be able to get a pre-authorization approval similar to those undergoing gender reassignment.

Many people ask if hormonal conditions like PCOS (polycystic ovary syndrome) or Cushing Syndrome could warrant a medically necessary condition, and unfortunately the answer is still no at this time.

LUX Electrolysis does not take insurance directly, but we do have an NPI# (provider number). We are basically an “Out of Network” Provider as far as insurance companies are concerned, which means you would pay LUX for any services rendered and we will send you home with a paid invoice. You would then submit your invoice to your insurance company for reimbursement, and they would send you a check. Make sure to be timely with your submissions to ensure reimbursement, as they maybe denied even with a prior authorization, if submitted too late.

Please note that we make no guarantees about your coverage and you must work out all details with your insurance company beforehand to get your prior authorization.